Gasherbrum IV Expedition

The peak known as Gasherbrum IV is the sixth highest mountain in Pakistan and the seventeenth highest mountain on Earth. It is located within the Gasherbrum massif and is considered to be one of its peaks.
The Gasherbrums are a lonely collection of mountains that may be found in the Karakoram Range of the Himalaya. They can be found in the most northeastern extremity of the Baltoro Glacier. The massif is home to three of the world’s summits that are over 8,000 metres in elevation (if one includes Broad Peak). It is commonly believed that the name Gasherbrum means “Shining Wall,” which is likely a reference to the highly visible west face of Gasherbrum IV. However, the name actually derives from the Balti words “rgasha,” which means “beautiful,” and “brum,” which means “mountain,” so it actually means “beautiful mountain.”
58 During an Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin, Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri made the first climb of the mountain using the Northeast Ridge.
1985 First ascent of the 3,000-meter-high West face at 10,000 feet by Austrian climber Robert Schauer and Polish climber Wojciech Kurtyka (Poland). However, they were obliged to stop at the north summit due to the severe weather and considerable weariness, therefore they did not reach the actual summit.
1986 It was Greg Child, Tim Macartney-Snape, and Tom Hargis who made the first climb of the Northwest ridge. This was the second time someone had climbed to the summit of Gasherbrum IV.
1997: A Korean team makes the first ascent of the Central Spur on the west flanks of the mountain (a different line). After what is described as a sieged ascent with a difficulty level of 5.10 A3, Bang Jung-ho, Kim Tong-kwan, and YooHuk-jae reached the peak.
1999 Kang Yeon-ryong and Yun Chi-won, two members of a Korean team consisting of 13 people, made the second climb of the Northwest ridge.
2008 Marks the year that a Spanish team led by Alberto Iurrategi, Juan Vallejo, José Carlos Tamayo, Mikel Zabalza, and Ferran Latorre made the third ascent of the Northwest Ridge. The group did not make it all the way to the top of the mountain; instead, they decided to camp a short distance away on a lesser peak.

Departure/Return Location Benazir Bhutto International Airport, Islamabad
Departure Time Mountain Range: Karakoram
Elevation: 7925 Best Time: Mid-May to End-August
Duration: 46 Days Zone: Permitted

Please contact us for further inquiry at [email protected].

 

Additional information

time46 Days
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Day

01: Arrival Islamabad

arrival at airport and then transfer to hotel. Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day

02: Islamabad to Skardu (By Air)

Early morning flight to Skardu (flights are subject to weather), if unable to fly we will depart for Skardu by road with overnight stay at Chilas. Overnight stay in hotel at Skardu.
Day

03: Chilas to Skardu

In case of flight has operated we will go for sightseeing tour of Skardu and in case no flight, the day will be used for over land travel from Chilas to Skardu (total drive is 22 – 24 hrs from Islamabad to Skardu). Overnight stay in hotel at Skardu.
Day

04: Rest day at Skardu

Sight seen in Skardu final packing for the Expedition.
Day

05: Skardu to Askole

After breakfast we will embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole – The last inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. (Tent)
Day

06: Askole to Jhula

Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula, (Jhula means wire Rope-Bridge supported by a wooden basket); now a day wooden bridge has been built to cross it. (Tent)
Day

07: Jhula to Paiju

We will resume trek along the Braldu River to a green oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. (Tent)
Day

08: Rest Day at Paiju

Rest & acclimatization day at Paiju.(Tent)
Day

09: Paiju to Urdukas

Begin trek after an early breakfast. (Tent)
Day

10: Urdukas to Goro II

A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier. (Tent)
Day

Day 11: Goro II to Gasherbrum IV Base camp

After Breakfast then trek to Gasherbrum IV Base camp (Tent)
Day

12 to 36: Climbing Activities

Climbing activities (Tent)
Day

Day 37: Gasherbrum IV Base camp to Concordia

After breakfast we will resume walk on the Baltoro Glacier to a point called Concordia – a huge junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi & Godwin Austin Glaciers at 4000 meters.(Tent)
Day

38: Concordia to Ali Camp

After an early breakfast we will leave the Concordia for Ali Camp. (Tent)
Day

39: Ali Camp - Cross Gondogoro Pass - Khuspang

A very early start as early as 2 or 3 O’clock in the morning to cross the Gondogoro la to reach Khuspang.(Tent)
Day

40: Khuspang to Shaicho

After a couple of minutes of easy walk we will come onto the glacier. We will pick our way across moving boulders and ice, and finally crossing the glacier up to the camping site we will reach Shaicho. Walk: 06 – 07 hrs, Grade: Easy, Altitude: 3800 m.(Tent)
Day

41: Shaicho to Hushe

After breakfast we will continue walk along the Hushe River on an easy path. Upon arrival in Hushe we will camp near the fields in Hushe village.(Tent)
Day

42: Hushe to Skardu

After breakfast we will embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep road to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to hotel and check in.Overnight stay in hotel at Skardu.
Day

43: Skardu to Chilas

Early morning drive for Chilas. On arrival transfer to hotel and check in.Overnight stay in hotel at Chilas.
Day

44: Chilas to Islamabad

After breakfast we will depart for Islamabad via babusar pass. On arrival transfer to hotel, overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day

45: Islamabad

We will proceed for de-briefing at Alpine Club in Islamabad. Afternoon, we will go for city tour of Islamabad. Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day

46: Islamabad to Flight out

Transfer to airport for flight back home.

Please Note: Gilgit Baltistan flights are subject to weather and backlog, in case of flight cancellation we will travel by road, and one night of Islamabad will be adjusted in overland travel.

Services included as following    

Hotels:

  • 02 nights hotel in Islamabad (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
  • 01 nights in hotel Naran (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
  • 03 nights in Skardu (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)

Transport:                

  • Pick up from group when arrive and drop to airport when group Departure Air-condition van from Islamabad –Skardu-Islamabad
  • Flight Tickets Islamabad-Skardu
  • Arrange transport on briefing and debriefing occasion
  • Sightseeing the capital city of Islamabad

4 x 4 Jeeps:

  • Jeeps from Skardu- Askoli -Hushe-Skardu

Trekking Food:

  • Food (during the Trek (we will serve breakfast, lunch and Dinner)

Porters:

  • Carry on member personal equipment, foods stuffs and camping crew etc. All porters insurance
  • 16 Kg porter facility for member’s personal gear. (Above 16 Kg will be separately charged from member on spot, as per porter rate per Kg)

Staffs: 

  • Guide Cook and assistance cook wages, camp food, transport and their insurance

Camping Equipment:

  • Mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent mattress, chairs, Tables

Kitchen utensils:

  • Complete kitchen utensils (crockery)

General Services:

  • Tips for baggage handling at airport & at hotels
  • Fess: (CKNP, Bridge crossing, cable crossing, camping)
  • International flights tickets re-confirmations
  • Custom clearing assistance

Services not included in given price

  • Member international flight tickets
  • Helicopter emergency rescue fees Members any climbing gears
  • Member personal insurance
  • Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks,
  • Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature
  • Custom clearing charges (import and export of equipment’s)
  • Any unforeseen expenses (just like road block extra hotel stay or if members stay more days at Base Camp) then members will be pay according to the numbers of days bases.